Silk or “resham”, as it is called in the subcontinent, is called the “royalty” in the textile and fashion industry. A cellulose-based natural fiber, silk can be woven into several forms owing to its right mixture of sturdy yet flexible properties. The discovery of silk dates back to 2640 BCE in China, when a cocoon fell into Emperor Huan Ti’s wife Xi Ling Shi’s hot tea cup while she sat under a mulberry tree. The hot tea led the cocoon to unravel and release its lustrous fibers into the cup. The queen, in awe of this newly discovered fiber, thought of weaving fabrics out of it. For the longest time, China had a monopoly over Mulberry silk production. With the advent of the Mauryan Empire and the spread of Buddhism, trade relations between India and China strengthened. Silk became a popular fabric material to the south of the Himalayas.

Presently, India produces four types of silk fibers. These are – Mulberry, Tussar, Eri, and Muga. Mulberry silk is produced most extensively across the Indian subcontinent due to the availability of the evergreen Mulberry plants and the excellent conditions the Tropical climate of India provides for the Bombyx mori moth. Tussar silk, produced by the worm Antherea miletta, thrives on the leaves of Asan and Arjun. This silk is abundant in Madhya Pradesh, Jharkhand, Orissa, and Maharashtra. Eri silk, popularly known as ‘Ahimsa Silk’ due to its mode of production, is produced by Philosamia riccini and mostly depends on castor leaves. They are collected from parts of West Bengal, Bihar and Assam. Muga, the rarest and most expensive of all, is produced solely in the Indian state of Assam by the Antheraea assamensis worm feeding on Som and Soalu plants. Other varieties manufactured from the fiber’s waste are also popular and in demand due to their affordability.

The silk fibers are twisted into yarns and woven in different styles. The number of fibers per yarn and the weaving pattern classify the final products as muslin, organza, charmeuse, georgette, and jersey fabrics. A combination of these materials is processed further into garments. The fabrics vary considerably in their shine and flow due to the difference in weaving styles.

Across the country, silk yarns are used to weave sarees and dress materials, incorporated with the signature styles of the states. The Jamdani, Baluchari, Katan of Bengal, Kanjivaram of Tamil Nadu, Patola of Gujarat, and Chanderi of Madhya Pradesh are some of the magnificent art pieces woven out of this exquisite material.

Due to the rarity of pure silk and the extensive global demand, synthetic look-alikes like satin and polyester infiltrated the markets. However, some simple tests can ascertain the purity of the silk fabric. Firstly, pure silks emit a multicolor hue when exposed to white light due to the pyramidal shape of the silk fibers. Synthetic silks reflect the white light as is. Next comes the burn test. A strand of pure silk fiber doesn’t catch fire easily and is not flammable. When exposed to direct flame, it fizzles into ash at once and emits a smell of burning hair. Synthetic fibers catch fire quickly and turn into a hard black substance once put out. Secondly, pure silk fibers cannot be woven on a power loom. They have to be handspuned and woven on a handloom. Thus, pure silk materials show an uneven gap between strands when observed closely under a magnifying glass. Synthetic fibers woven on power looms have a uniform weave. Handloom silks can last generations owing to their continuous filament structure and high tensile strength. Comparatively, synthetics start showing signs of wear in a few years.

The advent of synthetic fibers, high demand against limited production, lack of financial support, and global climate change compromising an ideal rearing condition, pose a threat to silk production.

Silk farmers find it impossible to compete with the apparent cheaper rates of synthetic fibers. To combat this, the Government of India has identified the source of natural silks and the subsequent weaves in different states and provided them with Geographical Identification (GI) tags to ensure quality and authenticity. The silk farmers also expect a subsidized production and rearing facility to sustain the grass-root workers. They also wish to do away with the system of middlemen, to earn the deserved value of their efforts and skills.

Silkworms also need large amounts of good-quality leaves to feed on and produce superior-quality cocoons. Muga and Tussar silk-producing worms also need ideal temperature and humidity conditions to survive. The scarcity of forest space, global warming, and industrial pollutants hugely impact their living conditions and food habits. The silk farmers are worried that the silk moths are facing a threat of extinction. Thus, sensitization of consumers to the production and rearing costs of natural silk and the resultant identification and appreciation of this lustrous natural fiber could prove to be the most holistic solution for the revival and sustenance of the industry.