Badla is intricate embroidery done using thin strips of metal, either in gold, silver, or copper on fine fabrics like mulmul, chiffon, and georgette or silk. Designs are created by inserting thin metal wires into fabrics to form dots or patterns and twisting them to create motifs. Common motifs include flowers, paisleys, and peacocks. The embroidered work is then flattened using the Pitta technique. The final burnishing step ensures the metalwork shines. The use of Badla originated in Uttar Pradesh. Initially, real silver and gold were used, reflecting the wealth of its patrons. Historically this technique is prized for its purity, glamour and elegance.
Pitta is the process of gently beating embroideries done with metal threads (Badla), typically with a hammer, to press it down and give an even finish and soft sheen to the pattern. During the process a pad is used below the surface of the fabric as a support. This technique originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, influenced by Mughal art and culture. The decorative craft that was created, adorned royal garments, ceremonial textiles, and accessories, symbolizing prestige and grandeur.
In contemporary fashion, Badla and Pitta work use non-precious metals and are done on synthetic materials, making them more accessible. These techniques are now blended with other embroidery forms such as zardozi, gota patti and chikankari.
The traditional practice of Badla work faces challenges with the dwindling number of artisans and economic constraints. Commonly seen in bridal and festive wear, it remains a testament to India’s rich artistic heritage. Efforts to preserve the techniques continue, blending the regal essence with modern aesthetics for global appeal.
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