Traditional kantha embroidery has carved a niche for itself. Each piece is a creation of self-expression and is exclusive. The embroidery is done free hand interpreting motifs as seen and imagined. The designing of each piece requires not only sewing skill but also the sense of color combination and the artistic perspective of fusion between modern and traditional designs. Kantha makers usually embroidered a motif which was usually inspired by her immediate surroundings, including the flora and fauna, items of everyday use and things she considered valuable and were a reflection of time and society.
The most prominent motifs of the kantha-embroidered pieces can be categorized as:
Tree of life– This was mainly used as a central motif but occasionally also in the four corners of the cloth. This has proved to be the most imaginative and experimented motif in the history of Kantha.
Lotus or Padma– In Hindu mythology the lotus is considered the seat of God, especially Goddess Lakshmi, the Goddess of wealth and also Brahma, the Creator. Married women of Bengal are mostly devotees of the Goddess, offering their prayers every Thursday for prosperity and harvest. The lotus is also the most common aquatic plant found in the ponds, lake, marshes of Bengal’s villages. Thus, its recurring appearance in the designs of the Kantha represents both the divine and the poetic concepts.
Paisley (Kalka) as corner motif– Corners of the kantha hold special meaning in the thematic layout of the design. Paisley has been part of the Persian Woven Textiles since long and the influence of the same is noticed in kantha designs, especially in shawls.
Circle in the Square– Traditionally called ‘mandala’ or ‘mondol’, the motif is an influence of the Tibetan Buddhist monks. Tibetan monks are known to create intricate designs in circular frame that radiates outwards using colourful clay on the monastery courtyards. These require tremendous patience and mindfulness as the embroidery is not traced out with pencil or chalk and is entirely sewn from the base. The designs are mostly geometric shapes but once put together looks elegant.
Plant as vegetal life (lata-pata)– Tropical Bengal has an abundance of greenery and this has inspired the kantha artisan’s motifs to a great extent. The vegetal motifs are influences by the creepers and climbers as also herbs and shrubs with their varied shape, size and form. Plants have also been used as alpana designs in Kantha.
Apart from this, motifs related to religious and cult beliefs are also seen on kantha. Several other folk art forms have been adopted into this needlecraft.